Tucked into the rugged landscape of southern Albania, Gjirokastër—often called the “City of Stone”—is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that offers visitors a rich blend of Ottoman architecture, dramatic mountain vistas, and centuries of compelling history. Whether you’re a culture buff, a foodie, or a traveler chasing authenticity, Gjirokastër is a must-see destination.
What to Do in Gjirokastër
1. Explore Gjirokastër Castle
Dominating the skyline, Gjirokastër Castle is one of the largest fortresses in the Balkans. Wander through its ancient stone halls, climb the towers for panoramic views over the Drino Valley, and visit the fascinating Arms Museum housed within. You’ll even find an American military aircraft on display, rumored to have crash-landed during the Cold War era.
2. Roam the Old Bazaar (Pazari i Vjetër)
The cobblestone streets of the Old Bazaar are lined with artisan shops selling handwoven textiles, silver filigree, and woodwork. It’s a perfect place to soak up the local atmosphere, grab a Turkish coffee, and pick up unique souvenirs.
3. Visit Skenduli House and Zekate House
These well-preserved Ottoman-era houses are more than just beautiful—they’re time capsules that showcase traditional Albanian home life and architecture. Skenduli House, in particular, features original frescoes, hidden rooms, and multiple fireplaces across its three floors.
4. Discover the Ethnographic Museum
Built on the site of communist leader Enver Hoxha’s birthplace, this museum delves into local culture and customs. Even if you’re not a museum lover, the building itself—an example of 19th-century Ottoman architecture—is worth the visit.
5. Take a Day Trip to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër)
Just under an hour’s drive away, the Blue Eye is a stunning natural spring with clear, icy-blue waters surrounded by lush forest. It’s perfect for a relaxing day of nature, though swimming is no longer allowed in the spring itself.
Where to Sleep in Gjirokastër
Staying in Gjirokastër is as much a part of the experience as exploring its historic streets. The city offers a wide range of accommodations, from centuries-old Ottoman homes transformed into charming guesthouses to modern boutique hotels with breathtaking views over the valley. Whether you’re looking for a budget-friendly hostel or a cozy room in a traditional stone house, Gjirokastër has something to suit every traveler’s style and budget—often with a generous dose of Albanian hospitality thrown in. Here’s a guide to some of the best places to rest your head after a day of exploring this captivating stone city.
1. Hotel Kalemi 2
This family-run hotel beautifully blends traditional architecture with modern comforts. Many rooms have panoramic views of the city and surrounding hills.
2. Stone City Hostel
A favorite among backpackers, this budget-friendly option is located in a restored Ottoman house. It offers a social vibe, clean facilities, and a charming garden.
3. Hotel Argjiro
More modern and centrally located, Hotel Argjiro offers sleek rooms with all the amenities you’d expect, making it ideal for travelers looking for a bit more comfort.
Where to Eat in Gjirokastër
1. Kujtimi Restaurant
A local favorite, this cozy restaurant serves up traditional Albanian fare like qifqi (rice balls with herbs), grilled lamb, and local cheeses. The family-run atmosphere makes it feel like dining in someone’s home.
2. Taverna Kuka
With a gorgeous terrace and a menu of hearty local dishes, Taverna Kuka is a must-visit for those who want to enjoy traditional cuisine with a view.
3. Restaurant Tradicional Odaja
If you’re in the mood for an authentic experience, Odaja offers homemade dishes using recipes passed down through generations. Try the tavë kosi (baked lamb with yogurt) or lakror (Albanian pie).
Highlights & Seasonal Tips
- Best Time to Visit: Spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October) offer the best weather, fewer tourists, and vibrant local festivals.
- Gjirokastër National Folklore Festival (every five years, next likely in 2025): Albania’s biggest cultural festival is held in the castle and features traditional music, dance, and costumes from across the country.
- Evenings in the Bazaar: Don’t miss a quiet evening stroll through the Old Bazaar under the warm glow of street lamps. It’s peaceful, safe, and incredibly photogenic.
- Local Delicacies to Try: Aside from qifqi, sample byrek, trahana (fermented soup), and gliko—a sweet preserve made from local fruits like figs or cherries.
Final Thoughts
Gjirokastër is more than just a stop on your Albanian itinerary—it’s a living museum of stone, culture, and hospitality. Whether you’re sipping mountain tea on a cobbled street or standing atop ancient walls with the wind at your back, this enchanting city offers something timeless. Stay a few days, take it slow, and let Gjirokastër’s layers of history and warmth unfold before you.