Tucked into the rugged landscape of southern Albania, Gjirokastër—often called the “City of Stone”—is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that offers visitors a rich blend of Ottoman architecture, dramatic mountain vistas, and centuries of compelling history. Whether you’re a culture buff, a foodie, or a traveler chasing authenticity, Gjirokastër is a must-see destination.
Top Things to Do in Gjirokastër
Gjirokastër is a city that invites you to slow down and soak in its layered history, architectural charm, and natural beauty. Whether you’re exploring ancient fortresses, sipping coffee in the bazaar, or stepping inside an Ottoman-era home, every corner tells a story. Here are the top experiences that bring the “City of Stone” to life.
1. Gjirokastër Castle
Dominating the skyline, Gjirokastër Castle is one of the largest fortresses in the Balkans. Wander through its ancient stone halls, climb the towers for panoramic views over the Drino Valley, and visit the fascinating Arms Museum housed within. You’ll even find an American military aircraft on display, rumored to have crash-landed during the Cold War era.
2. Roam the Old Bazaar (Pazari i Vjetër)
The cobblestone streets of the Old Bazaar are lined with artisan shops selling handwoven textiles, silver filigree, and woodwork. It’s a perfect place to soak up the local atmosphere, grab a Turkish coffee, and pick up unique souvenirs.
3. Skenduli & Zekate Houses
These well-preserved Ottoman-era houses are more than just beautiful—they’re time capsules that showcase traditional Albanian home life and architecture. Skenduli House, in particular, features original frescoes, hidden rooms, and multiple fireplaces across its three floors.
4. Ethnographic Museum
Built on the site of communist leader Enver Hoxha’s birthplace, this museum delves into local culture and customs. Even if you’re not a museum lover, the building itself—an example of 19th-century Ottoman architecture—is worth the visit.
5. Day Trip: The Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër)
Just under an hour’s drive away, the Blue Eye is a stunning natural spring with clear, icy-blue waters surrounded by lush forest. It’s perfect for a relaxing day of nature, though swimming is no longer allowed in the spring itself.
Where to Stay in Gjirokastër
Staying in Gjirokastër is as much a part of the experience as exploring its historic streets. The city offers a wide range of accommodations, from centuries-old Ottoman homes transformed into charming guesthouses to modern boutique hotels with breathtaking views over the valley. Whether you’re looking for a budget-friendly hostel or a cozy room in a traditional stone house, Gjirokastër has something to suit every traveler’s style and budget—often with a generous dose of Albanian hospitality thrown in. Here’s a guide to some of the best places to rest your head after a day of exploring this captivating stone city.
1. Hotel Kalemi 2
Hotel Kalemi 2 in Gjirokastër is a beautifully restored Ottoman-era guesthouse located in the heart of the historic old bazaar, just 200 meters from Çerçiz Topulli Square. Set in a traditional stone-and-wood building, the hotel features rooms with carved wooden ceilings, air conditioning, flat-screen TVs, private bathrooms, and select accommodations offering balconies, fireplaces, or seating areas. Guests particularly enjoy the rooftop terrace with its stunning views of Gjirokastër Castle, where breakfast is served daily.
The hotel’s prime location—just steps from top attractions like the Ethnographic Museum, Zekate House, and the castle—has earned it high praise, including a 9.7/10 rating for location. With amenities like free parking, complimentary Wi-Fi, an on-site bar and restaurant, and welcoming multilingual staff, Hotel Kalemi 2 combines traditional charm with modern comfort, making it an ideal base for exploring the city.
2. Stone City Hostel
Stone City Hostel in Gjirokastër is a lively, award-winning spot at the top of the old bazaar, just minutes from the castle. Set in a historic building, it offers dorms and a private room with air conditioning, custom beds, and spotless shared bathrooms. Guests love the social vibe, with a communal kitchen, shaded garden, rooftop terrace, and daily walking tours. With free Wi-Fi, breakfast, and friendly staff, it’s a top choice for solo travelers and groups exploring the city’s UNESCO-listed charm.
3. Hotel Argjiro
Hotel Argjiro is a stylish four-star hotel in the heart of Gjirokastër, just steps from the Old Bazaar and castle. Housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century building, it offers 49 elegant, air-conditioned rooms with modern comforts like Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and minibars. Guests enjoy a rooftop terrace with panoramic views, a bar-restaurant, free parking, and friendly multilingual staff. Its central location and historic charm make it an ideal base for exploring the city.
Best Places to Eat in Gjirokastër
1. Kujtimi Restaurant
A local favorite, this cozy restaurant serves up traditional Albanian fare like qifqi (rice balls with herbs), grilled lamb, and local cheeses. The family-run atmosphere makes it feel like dining in someone’s home.
2. Taverna Kuka
With a gorgeous terrace and a menu of hearty local dishes, Taverna Kuka is a must-visit for those who want to enjoy traditional cuisine with a view.
3. Restaurant Tradicional Odaja
If you’re in the mood for an authentic experience, Odaja offers homemade dishes using recipes passed down through generations. Try the tavë kosi (baked lamb with yogurt) or lakror (Albanian pie).
When to Visit: Weather, Festivals & Seasonal Highlights
- Best Time to Visit: Spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October) offer the best weather, fewer tourists, and vibrant local festivals.
- Gjirokastër National Folklore Festival (every five years, next likely in 2025): Albania’s biggest cultural festival is held in the castle and features traditional music, dance, and costumes from across the country.
- Evenings in the Bazaar: Don’t miss a quiet evening stroll through the Old Bazaar under the warm glow of street lamps. It’s peaceful, safe, and incredibly photogenic.
- Local Delicacies to Try: Aside from qifqi, sample byrek, trahana (fermented soup), and gliko—a sweet preserve made from local fruits like figs or cherries.
Local Foods You Must Try
Albanian cuisine is a flavorful fusion of Mediterranean and Balkan influences, and in Gjirokastër, traditional recipes are still very much alive—often cooked just the way grandmothers have done for generations. From savory pies to sweet preserves, here are some local specialties you shouldn’t leave without tasting:
Qifqi
Unique to Gjirokastër, these herbed rice balls are bound with egg and lightly fried in a special pan. Crispy on the outside and aromatic within, they’re a true local delicacy and often served as a snack or side dish.
Tavë Kosi
A comforting baked dish made with lamb, rice, and a tangy yogurt-egg mixture, Tavë Kosi is a staple across Albania but especially satisfying in the cooler mountain air of Gjirokastër.
Byrek
This flaky, savory pie can be filled with cheese, spinach, or meat and is sold everywhere from sit-down restaurants to street-side bakeries. Try it fresh and warm for the best experience.
Trahana
A fermented grain soup that’s hearty and sour, Trahana is a traditional comfort food often eaten during colder months. It’s a taste of home for many Albanians and varies slightly by region.
Lakror
Similar to byrek but often baked in a pan over hot coals, Lakror is filled with seasonal vegetables or meat and wrapped in thin, hand-stretched dough. It’s rustic, flavorful, and filling.
Gliko
End your meal with Gliko—candied fruits or nuts preserved in syrup, traditionally served on a spoon with a glass of cold water. Common flavors include fig, walnut, cherry, and even watermelon rind.
🧠 Fun Facts About Gjirokastër
- A City of Writers: Gjirokastër is the birthplace of Ismail Kadare, Albania’s most famous novelist and a nominee for the Nobel Prize in Literature.
- Cold War Relic: The U.S. aircraft displayed in the castle was rumored to be a spy plane that crashed or was forced to land—though the full story remains mysterious.
- Living Stone Architecture: The houses in the old town are made almost entirely of stone, including the roofs—earning the city its nickname “City of Stone.”
- Rare Architectural Status: It’s one of the few places in the Balkans where traditional Ottoman-style houses have remained largely intact.
- Used in Film: Gjirokastër has served as a filming location for several historical dramas due to its preserved architecture.
❓ Gjirokastër FAQ: What Travelers Ask Most
How do you get to Gjirokastër?
You can take a bus or minibus from Tirana, Saranda, or Berat. The nearest airport is in Tirana (4–5 hours away), or Corfu (with a ferry to Saranda and then a 1.5-hour drive).
How many days should I stay?
2–3 days are ideal to explore the city at a relaxed pace, visit nearby sites, and enjoy the food and atmosphere.
Is Gjirokastër safe for tourists?
Yes, it’s considered very safe. The local people are friendly and welcoming to travelers.
Can you use euros in Gjirokastër?
While the Albanian lek is the official currency, some places in tourist areas may accept euros. It’s best to carry local currency for smaller shops and transport.
Is English widely spoken?
In hotels, restaurants, and tourist sites—yes. Older locals may speak some Italian or Greek instead, but most younger people understand some English.
Final Thoughts: Why Gjirokastër is Worth the Trip
Gjirokastër is more than just a stop on your Albanian itinerary—it’s a living museum of stone, culture, and hospitality. Whether you’re sipping mountain tea on a cobbled street or standing atop ancient walls with the wind at your back, this enchanting city offers something timeless. Stay a few days, take it slow, and let Gjirokastër’s layers of history and warmth unfold before you.